Tatting of to-day

Tatting of To-day

Published by

The Ladies' World

Edited by Louise S. Hauck

W^ho will be glad to answer any letters relating to these
designs, if a stamped, self-addressed envelope is enclosed

Price 10 Cents

The McClure Publications, Inc., 251 Fourth Avenue, New York

Copyrighl, 1915, by McClure Pub.. In

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©CU418001

Page 3

The Art of Making Tatting

By Louise S. Hauck
Who tvill be glad to answer questions if you are puzzled

IN order to learn easily and quickly, and without
trying orte's patience too much, in learning, how to
make tatting, it will be wise to read the follow-
ing thoughtfully and carefully. The knots of which
the tatting is made consist of two stitches. These
stitches form little loops through which the shuttle
thread must run freely so as not to confine it. You
will see in starting the work the consistency of this
need. Here is a fact which must be absolutely re-
membered in trying to learn. That the stitches are
made with the left-hand thread and not with the
shuttle thread. The shuttle is where the supply
comes from.

around the left-hand fingers, the shuttle in the right
hand with the thread at the right of the shuttle,
holding out the thread of the shuttle with the middle
finger of the right hand.

Now you will make the first stitch of the knot.
Put the shuttle down in the ring against the space
thread of the left hand, let the thread pass up be-
tween the forefinger and shuttle, then over the shuttle
and down between the shuttle and thumb. Now
comes the knack of making the first little loop.

Give the shuttle thread a little jerk, at the same
time bending the left-hand fingers a little, holding
the shuttle thread firmly; ,you will see the little loop

In position for first stitch

First half of first knot

In position for second stitch

Completed knot of under and over stitches

How to hold the left-hand thread and shuttle

TAKE the end of the thread between the forefinger
and thumb, form a ring around the left hand,
spreading out the rest of the fingers a little. You
will now have a space between the forefinger and
middle finger. In this space all the stitches are
made that are used when working with one thread.
Now take the shuttle between the forefinger and
thumb of the right hand, with the thread at the
right of the shuttle. Have the thread between the
left hand and the shuttle about six inches long. If
you have the thread too long it will bother you. be-
cause you will have to hold the thread out with the
middle flngei of the right hand. Now here i? the
position for the first stitch. A ring of the thread

will immediately fall in place. The loop will have
the shuttle thread running through it, the left-hand
thread will be over the loop, the end thread will then
be underneath. The little loop is now brought back
to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand by
opening the fingers of the left hand. You will see
that the loop will slip back easily enough. Hold the
first stitch firmly between the forefinger and thumb
of the left hand. All the knots are gently held be-
tween the forefinger and thumb as you work.

The second position for holding the shuttle in mak-
ing the second stitch is thus: Allow a loop to form
in the ring of the left-hand thread, and pass the
space thread up between the thumb and shuttle,
over the shuttle and down between the shuttle and
forefinger; give the shuttle thread a little jerk; at the

Page U

same time close the left-hand fingers, hold the shuttle
thread firmly and the loop will at once fall in place.
Now look at this stitch carefully. (Of course you
will understand that the shuttle must be worked in
the loop you have formed with the shuttle thread.)
You will see that the shuttle thread runs through
the little loop, and the left-hand thread will be under-
neath the little loop. Now open the fingers of the
left hand and let the stitch come close to the first
one made and you will have one complete knot. All
tatting, no matter how elaborate, is made of these
knots, whether it be made of one or two threads.
A careful study of these directions will give you a
clear understanding of how to make the tatting shown
in the following pages.

How to make the Picot

WHEN you make the first stitch of the knot, do
not bring the stitch close to the last knot made,
but leave a space long or short as directed, then
make the second stitch and bring that close to the

right size as you work. The little finger will come
in play and do the work for you. In this way: You
will learn that by giving the thread a jerk with the
little finger it will make the ring on the left hand
larger and so, without your knowing it, this will take
place. All the fingers of the left hand will come in
play as you go on with the work, and by degrees you
will learn to work so that you will be able to talk, too.

How to work with two threads

WHEN you work with two threads, you generally
begin with a ring. When you are winding the
shuttle to work with two threads, you will then not
have need to tie the ends. When your shuttle gives
out and it needs re-winding, leave the end quite long
so as to tie the end of the shuttle thread to it. This
is done with a square knot.

To make a square knot

TIE the ends close to the work. Lay the left-hand
thread over that of the right, put the left-hand

-One complete knot open 2—Completi

and one picot before being drawn up

knot closed 3 — Six knots
J, — One complete ring

first and bring the knot with the picot close to those
already made.

When you find that the hand thread is getting
small, just give the thread of the left hand a pull
downward from the forefinger and thumb. As you
go on with the work you will also find that it is best
to go gently, even if you can work fast. It is not
necessary to draw the thread hard in working. You
will find that the knots will look more even if you do
not pull your work too hard. It is best to give the
rings a second pull so that they will not open later
on, as you work. It is quite impossible to close the
ring properly in the first attempt. You will have to
pull the thread too hard and are liable to break the
shuttle thread if you attempt to close the ring
entirely with the first attempt. By-and-bye you
will learn unconsciously to keep your ring just the

thread under the thread with the left hand, take the
left-hand thread in your left hand, lay the right-hand
thread over it, pass the left-hand end through the
ring you have formed, take hold of the end with the
right hand and draw the knot so that you can have a
good look at it. You will have a loop within a loop.
Draw this knot just as close to your work as possible,
and draw both ends at once so as to make a neat
knot. Now cut off the ends.

After you have made the ring that precedes the
work on the second thread (work made with the
spool thread is called a bar), if the bar has only a
few knots, wind the spool thread, holding it the same
as the shuttle thread, over the outstretched fingers
of the left hand and wind it a number of times around
the little finger to hold it firm. When you need to
make, for example, a bar with five picots, it is best

DEC II 1915

Page 5

to first wind the spool thread over the middle finger,
then over the little. If your directions call for a bar
of seven picots, then you may wind the spool thread
around the middle finger, then the third finger, and
lastly around the little finger. This will prevent you
from unwinding the thread around the little finger
and rewinding in order to give you enough thread to

complete the bar. Care must be taken when work-
ing with two threads so that you turn your work
properly, or you will make the bar in the wrong
place. For example, if you are going to make a
bar with a ring at either end, you will have to
turn your work up or down as the case may require.
This you will have to determine.

Directions for Making Ring Tatting

SIX knots, one picot.
Six knots, one picot,
six knots, one picot, six
knots. Draw shuttle
thread up tightly so as
to form a single perfect
ring. Now, to make
the second ring:

No. 3 — Begin by leav-
ing a little space from the first ring. Six knots.
With a crochet hook, or a good-sized pin, pull the
hand thread through the last picot of the ring just
made, and put the shuttle through this loop and
draw the thread close to the six knots previously
made. Thus continue to make rings for the plain

design of tatting. The
ring with three picots in
the center is made with-
out a knot between each
picot.

No. U — The ring with
five picots is made begin-
ning with five knots,
one picot, five knots,
three picots with knot between each picot, five knots,
one picot, five knots, close.

No. 5 — Three knots, one picot, three knots, five
picots, one knot between each picot, three knots, one
picot, three knots, close, three knots. Join to first
picot of ring just completed and proceed to finish ring.

No. 5

Simple Edges and Insertions for Handkerchiefs, Infants' Garments and Underwear

No. 6— Edge— Four
knots between each
picot in the small
rings, eight knots
between the single
picots and one knot
between each of the
five picots, turn and
repeat the large ring,
joining at the first
picot. The insertion
isthelargeringthrough whichyoucanrun ribbon. Sew
on the garment as it is, or crochet a single stitch in each
of the five picots with five in chain between the rings.

-E'lyt- and Insert

No. 7 — Insertion —
Four knots, one pi-
cot, four knots, three
picots with one knot
between each picot,
four knots, one picot,
four knots, close.
Turn, repeat the ring.
Turn, four knots,
join to picot four
knots, three picots
with one knot between each picot, turn. Proceed
working these rings, joining each to the preceding
one after making the first four knots of each ring.

iVo. 7-

■ leaf

No. 8 — Cloi'er Leaf — Six knots between each of the
picots. The rings must be made close together.

No. 9 — Insertion with two
threads

No. 9 — Insertion — Four knots between each picot
in the rings — six knots in the connecting bars.

No. 10 — Clover leaf insertion
and edge, with two threads

No. 10 — Clovef leaf insertion arid edge iviih two
threads — Begin with a small ring. Four knots, one
picot, four knots, five picots with one knot between
each picot, four knots, one picot, draw together.
With the spool thread work six knots, then make the
second ring like the first. Then the bar with six knots.
Proceed to make the clover leaf given before with six
knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, one
picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, close and repeat
three times to make three rings of leaf. Repeat bar
with six knots, then two small rings, then a clover leaf.

No. 11
foi

Edge and beadi,
underwear

No. 11 — Edge and insertion. Two threads — Ring:
Six knots one picot, four knots one picot, one knot
one picot, one knot one picot, one knot one picot, four
knots one picot, six knots, close ring. With the spool
thread: Eight knots, one picot, eight knots. With
the shuttle: Six knots, join to the first picot toward
you at the left and proceed to work like the first
ring. Then proceed to work on the spool thread
as the preceding bar. There are six chain cro-
cheted between each picot in the centers of each
bar.

Page 6

An effective little beading and edge

ivhich the beginner can make for

underwear and infants^ gannents

EdCe No. 12— Two threads

WITH the shuttle thread make three knots, one
picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, three
picots, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot,
three knots, close. With the spool thread: Five knots,
one picot, five knots, to make the bar. With the
shuttle: Three knots, join in the second picot, three
knots, three picots, three knots, one picot, three knots,
close. With the spool thread: Five knots, one picot,
five knots. With the shuttle: Three knots, one
picot, three knots, join; three knots, three picots,
three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three
knots, close. Thus proceed, repeating the bars and
rings. The crocheted edge for sewing onto the fab-
ric is made by chaining six stitches between each
picot on the bars.

Made of No. 100 thread this will be very pretty for
use on sheer materials, handkerchiefs and neckwear;
while made from No. 60 crochet cotton it will be ap-
propriate for underwear and doilies. Heavy linen thread
is used for making tatting for trimming luncheon-
sets, runners, pillow-covers and heavy linen covers.

A charming edge for underwear, which may

also be developed in heavy linen colored thread

for finishing runners and luncheon sets

Clover Edge No. 13~Two threads

WITH the shuttle thread make five knots, one
picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, one
picot, three knots, one picot, five knots, close. With
the spool thread: One knot, seven picots, with one
knot between each picot, one knot. With the shut-
tle make clover leaf: Five knots, one picot, three
knots, join picot to the last picot of ring (that is, the
last one made), three knots, one picot, three knots,
one picot, three knots, close. Five knots, join, three
knots, five picots with one knot between each picot,
three knots, one picot, five knots; close. Five knots,
join, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot,
three knots, one picot, five knots; close. Now take
the spool thread and pass it through the first leaf
of the clover and fiasten the three leaves close to-
gether. With the spool thread: One knot, seven
picots, with one knot between each picot, then one
knot. With the shuttle: Five knots, join to the
second picot of clover, three knots, one picot, three
knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, five knots.
Then proceed to repeat the bar with the seven picots,
and then the clover.

No. 14— Double Clover Edge.
Ttvo threads

WITH the shuttle: Five knots,
one picot, eight knots, one
picot, eight knots, one picot, five
knots, close. Five knots, making
the first stitch of the knot just as
close to the ring, just made, as it
is possible to get it. Join. Eight
knots, one picot, eight knots, one
picot, five knots, close. Make an-
other ring like the two preceding ones. If the clover
leaf does not come very close together at the base of
the three rings, slip the spool thread through the first
leaf and fasten the rings together. Turn, five knots,
join, in the picot of the first leaf made, five knots,
three picots with one knot between each picot, five
knots, one picot, five knots, close. With the spool
thread: With a crochet needle draw the spool thread
through the two picots (that is, the picot in the last
leaf made, and the picot in the third leaf), thus
bringing the spool thread in the proper place to begin
the bar. Now with the spool thread make eight
knots, one picot, eight knots, and draw them close to

Used either as an insertion or ea
and beading, this clover border will
effective on underivear

the double clover. Proceed to
make the double clover and the
bar until you have made what you
need. Then you will observe that
there is a difference in the work.
The clover coming over the bar
is the right side of the work.
Now the next thing to do is to
make the ring and bar at the top
of the clover. Put the end of
the shuttle thread through the
picot (that is, in the ring where there is but one
picot), and tie the spool thread to it. Draw the knot
tight and cut close. Now take the work in hand so that
the leaf with the three picots points from you, and with
the spool thread make ten knots. Turn your work,
and with the shuttle make ten knots and join between
the two leaves where there is already a join, and then
make ten more knots and close. With the spool
thread: Ten knots, join in the picot at top of leaf and
make ten more knots, then draw the knots close to the
ring and proceed to work as directed until you have
reached the end of your work. Now crochet seven
in chain between each join in the bar and in the ring.

Tatting is so serviceable that it makes

practical as well as pretty beading

and edge for lingerie

THREE knots between each picot of the small ring.
Nine knots in the bar. The large ring has three
knots, one picot, three knots, three picots, three knots.

one picot, three knots; close. To make the second large
ring: Three knots, join, three knots, nine picots, three
knots, one picot, three knots. Thus proceed as directed.

Page 7

SIX knots, one picot, four knots
and three picots with one knot
between each picot, four knots,
one picot, six knots, close ring.
With the spool thread: Six knots,
three picots with two knots be-
tween each, six knots. The second
ring is made like the preceding
one and joined at the first picot
at the left. Continue repeating
with spool thread. The edge is
made by crocheting two chain
between the rings, and one chain
between each one of the three
picots.

To hem the doily: Be sure you
cut a perfect circle. Place a
plate, tumbler, or anything that
is perfectly round, on a piece of
linen and mark carefully around
the edge of the article used, and cut exactly on the
marked line. You can easily destroy the circle if
you are not careful in cutting out the disk. After

A set of finger -hold or bread- and-hutter
plate doilies of fine linen finished with a
simple tatted edge will be acceptable to
any housekeeper who loves dainty linens

you are sure that your circle is
perfect, turn down the edge as
evenly and as little as possible,
and then with a fine needle and
thread run on the wrong side of
the circle with small stitches on
the right side. When you come
to the starting point leave end
of the thread with which you
have been running and pull up
slightly and evenly. Now turn
down the hem as evenly as pos-
sible and hem with very small
stitches. You will be surprised
how easy it will be to hem around
a circle. This method holds good
with anything that needs to be
hemmed where the outer edge is
wider than the inner. End the
tatting for the doily with the spool
thread. You may then sew the
four ends together and cut them
off after you have made sure that the thread is
properly fastened. Any other edge may be used in
the same way.

No. 17-Edge. With two threads

WITH the shuttle: Fourknots,
one picot, one knot, one
picot, four knots, three picots
with one knot between each picot,
four knots, one picot, one knot,
one picot, fourknots; close. With
the spool thread: Seven picots
with one knot between each picot.
With the shuttle: Seven knots,
join in the first picot of ring. One
knot, join in the second picot,
four knots, three picots with one knot between each
picot, fourknots, one picot, one knot, one picot, seven
knots; close. With the spool thread: Seven picots with

Edge for underwear, doilies, luncheon sets
or rompers

one knot between each picot. With
the shuttle: Four knots, join,
one knot, join, four knots, three
picots with one knot between each
picot, one picot, one knot, one
picot, four knots; close. With the
spool thread: Four knots. With
the shuttle repeat the first ring
joining in the two picots, and pro-
ceed to work as directed.

Beginning with the first ring,
crochet one single stitch in each
of the picots, three in chain between. This makes
a very nice finish and looks pretty when it is put
on the garment.

Insertion or Edge No. 1

Edge No. 2

Insertion No. 2. Edge is made of single row

Edge No. 1

TWO threads. No. 30 thread was used for making
this. Wind the shuttle without breaking your
thread. Ring, seven double knots, picot, seven double
knots, draw up with spool thread. Chain, seven
double knots, picot, seven double knots. Push the
stitches closely with the shuttle thread. Ring, seven
double knots, join to picot of first ring. Continue
until your four rings are all joined in the first picot.
Then chain five double knots, picot, two double knots,
picot, two double knots, picot. ' five double knots.
Begin at first ring seven double knots, picot. seven
double knots, draw up chain, seven double knots and
join to picot of chain made in first half wheel.

Insertion — Ring seven double knots, picot, seven
double knots. Draw up chain, seven double knots,
picot, seven double knots and so on until four rings

are joined together. Then close to the last ring.
Seven double knots, picot, seven double knots, chain,
seven double knots, picot, seven double knots and so
on until the required length is reached.

and Edge No. 2

TWO threads. Wind the shuttle without break-
ing thread.

Edge — Ring, five double knots, picot, five double
knots, picot, ten double knots. Draw up, using spool
thread and chain fourteen double knots. Fasten in
last picot in ring and so on until the desired length is
reached.

Insertion — Same as edge except in chain make seven
double knots, picot, seven double knots and join to the
last picot in ring until the desired length is reached.
Then go back on the chain side and join in each picot.

Page 8

Showing Tatting Used on Collar

^^^^^i^S^P^^^^^^^^^^x^

HERE is a novel
idea, and a practi-
cal one as well.
One linen handkerchief,
measuring fourteen
inches square; one spool
of white sewing cotton
No. 12; about quarter of
a spool of No. 60 crochet
thread; a patent steel
crochet hook No. 10, and

four strands of white or colored mercerized embroid-
ery cotton will be needed to make this collar.

To make the tatting

FILL the shuttle with the No. 12 cotton— two
double knots, picot, until there are eight picots
and two double knots; draw it up close; allow quarter
inch of cotton; three double knots, picot; two double
knots, picot; two double knots, picot; two double
knots, join through seventh picot of first ring, two
double knots, picot; two double knots, picot; three
double knots; draw up tightly; as close to it as pos-
sible, three double knots. Join through last picot of
ring just made, two double knots, picot, until there
are six picots; three double knots, draw up tightly;
close to last to it make a ring like the first of these
three, which forms a clover leaf; continue for re-
quired length.

ng and crochet coiribined in an edge for neckwear and
under^vear, bibs and infants* dresses

To crochet the edge

TIE on crochet cotton
at first single wheel,
chain eight, one single
through first picot; chain
four, one treble through
closing of clover leaf;
chain three, one single
through middle picot:
chain four, one double
through small wheel;
chain four, one single through second picot of clover
leaf; same to end.

Second row — Chain three, one double over chain of
first row; chain two, two doubles over next chain;
chain two, two doubles over next chain; same to end;
break off, and draw thread through last loop.

Crocheting along the edge of tatting gives a founda-
tion to sew it on by. Press before using.

To make the collar, fold the handkerchief exactly in
half, and cut out the neck. Sew the tatting around
it, having it full at the corners. Mark a circle around
a spool in each corner and briar-stitch. Roll the
collar in a damp cloth, allow it to remain fifteen
minutes, then press over several thicknesses of
flannel, wrong side up, until perfectly dry, and it is
ready to wear. This size is to be worn over a waist.
These collars may be as plain or as elaborate as time
and inclination suggest. Tatted motifs may be set in.

Page 9

A Night-gow^n Yoke

Medallion No. 1

Medallion No. 2

Ten of each of these motifs required

MOTIF No. 1, with two threads. With the shuttle
thread': Twelve knots, one picot, twelve knots,
close. With the spool thread, seven picots
with one knot between each picot, beginning the bar
with two knots and ending it with two knots. Turn
and with the shuttle, twelve knots, join in picot, twelve
knots, close. Repeat the bars and ring until you have
made five rings and five bars. Tie with a square
knot and cut off the ends.

Motif No. 2, with two threads. Three knots, one
picot, five knots, one long picot. three knots, three
picots with one knot between each picot, three knots,
one long picot, five knots, one picot, three knots,
close. Turn and with the spool thread, two knots
one picot, one knot. Turn and with the shuttle
three knots, join, five knots, join to the long picot,
three knots, three picots with one knot between
each picot, three knots, one long picot, five knots,
one picot. three knots, close. Turn and with the
spool thread, two knots, one picot, one knot. Re-
peat the rings and the little bars with the one picot,
untiJ you have made eight rings. You finish the
motif with the small bar. Join the shuttle thread to
the first ring you made, tie a square knot and cut off
the ends.

Large motif for center-front

Made toith two threads: Five knots, one picot,
five knots, one picot, ten knots, close. With the spool
thread make a bar with seven picots with one knot
between each picot, beginning and ending with two
knots. All the bars in this yoke are begun and
ended with two knots. With the shuttle ten knots
join in second picot of ring, ten knots, close. Turn,
and with the spool thread make two knots, one picot,
two knots. With the shuttle, without turning, make
a ring five knots, one picot, five knots, close. With-
out turning, with the spool thread make two knots,
one picot, two knots. Join the spool thread back so
as to bring the bars and small ring together. With-
out turning make a bar of seven picots. Turn, with
the shuttle, five knots, join in the first picot of
motif No. 1, five knots, one picot, ten knots, close.
Turn, and with the spool thread make another bar
of seven picots. Turn, with the shuttle ten knots,

join to picot in ring, ten knots, close. Turn and re-
peat the little bar with one picot, and then the small
ring, and make the bar with one picot. Join the spool
thread so as to bring the bars close together. With-
out turning make a bar with three picots with the
spool thread. Turn, with the shuttle, five knots,
one picot, five knots, one picot, one knot. Join to cen-
ter picot of bar in motif, one knot, one picot, five
knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join,
five knots, five picots with one knot between each
picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five
knots, join, five knots, three picots with one knot
between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots,
close. With the spool thread, make a bar of seven
picots. Join in the center picot of last made ring.
Without turning, and with the shuttle, five knots,
join to first picot in bar at the left, eleven picots,
with one knot between each picot, five knots, one
picot, five knots, close. Without turning make a
bar of five picots with the shuttle, nine knots, seven
picots, with one knot between each picot, nine knots,
close. Without turning and with the spool thread
make a bar of five picots, with the shuttle and without
turning, five knots, join to first picot of bar at the left,
five knots, eleven picots with one knot between each
picot, five knots, close. Without turning, and with
the spool thread, make a bar of seven picots. Turn
and with the shuttle, five knots, one picot, five knots.
one picot, one knot. Join at the base of the ring and
at the beginning of the bar, one knot, one picot, five
knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join,
five knots, one picot, one knot, one picot, one knot,
join to center picot where there are five picots. Make
one knot, one picot, one knot, one picot. five knots,
one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, five
knots, one picot, one knot, join to center picot of bar
in motif, one knot, one picot, five knots, one picot,
five knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread,
make a bar of five picots. Turn and with the shuttle
three knots, join seven knots, one picot, ten knots,
close. Turn and with the spool thread, make the bar
with one picot, small ring and a small bar, join these
two bars and small ring so that they will come close
together. Without turning make a bar of seven
picots. Turn and with the shuttle, ten knots, join,
five knots join to the first picot at the right of bar in
motif, five knots, close. Turn and repeat the small

Page 10

bars and small ring, and without turning make a bar
of seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, ten knots,
one picot, ten knots, close. Turn and repeat the small
bars and ring close together as directed before; with-
out turning make a bar of seven picots. Turn and
with the shuttle, ten knots, join, five knots, join in
first picot in bar of motif, five knots, close. Turn
and with the spool thread make a bar of seven picots.
Join in the last picot in bar |'of motif and the first
picot of first ring made at the beginning.

This completes the top of centerpiece. Tie the two
threads carefully with the square knot, and cut off"
the thread.

Now lay the piece down with the wide side up. At
the top there are three bars, slip one end of the spool
thread through the center picot in the first bar in
motif No. 1 and tie the shuttle thread to it with a
square knot. Cut off the ends.

Joining the motifs to center-front

TAKE the work in your left hand and turn the work
down so that when you begin to work the picots
will point up. Make a bar of seven picots. Turn and
with the shuttle, twelve knots, join to the picot of
small ring and to the center picot of one of the rings
in motif number 2, twelve knots, close. Turn and
with the spool thread make another bar with the
seven picots, join to the center picot of the next ring
in motif, repeat the bar and join, in the center picot
of the next ring of motif, repeat th^ bar. Turn, with
the shuttle ten knots, and join in the long picot of
motif, ten knots, close. Without turning make a bar
of seven picots, join in the first of the three picots,
in second ring. Turn, five knots, five picots with one
knot between each picot, five knots, close. Without
turning, with the spool thread make a bar of five
knots. Turn and with the shuttle, five knots, one
picot, five knots, close. Without turning, with the
spool thread, five knots. Turn, with the shuttle, five
knots, five picots, with one knot between each picot,
five knots, close. Without turning and with the
spool thread make a bar with the seven picots, one
knot between each, join to the base of ring opposite.
Without turning, ten knots, join at the base of motif
No. 1, ten knots, close. Five knots, one picot, five
knots, close. Turn, make a bar of seven picots, join-
ing the third picot to the third picot in the bar at the
left. Then when you have finished the seventh picot
and ended with the two knots, join in the center picot
of motif. Repeat the bar and join to first picot of
the next bar. Repeat the bar and with the shuttle,
twelve knots, join to center picot of bar of the third
from the first joining of same bar, three knots, join
t) the center picot of motif No. 2, twelve knots,
close, and join to first of the three picots in ring of
motif No. 2. Make a bar of seven picots, and join at
long picot of motif — repeat the bar and join in first
picot of next ring. Repeat the bar. Turn, and with
the shuttle thread, twelve knots, join to center picot
of ring at the left, and to the center picot of bar on
motif No. 1, twelve knots, close. Turn, repeat the
bar of seven picots, and join to center picot of next
bar in motif No. 2. Repeat the bar and join in the
first picot of the next bar of motif. Turn and with
the shuttle, five knots, join in the third picot of bar,
five knots, join in the middle of the three picots of
ring in motif, eight knots, join to the first picot of
next ring on motif No. 2, five knots, close. Turn,
with spool thread repeat the bar with seven picots,
join to the long picot of motif, repeat the bar and join
in the middle of the three picots of next ring in motif.
Repeat the bar, join in the last of the three picots, of
next ring of motif No. 2. Turn, with the shuttle

thread ten knots, join in the center of the three picots
of next ring in motif No.2, and in the center picot
of bar of next motif No. 1, ten knots, close. Turn
and repeat the bar. Join to the last picot of the bar
in motif No. 1, which means there will be two picots
between the ring and join. Repeat the bar and join
in the center of bar in motif No. 1. Repeat the bar,
join in the last picot of the same bar, three knots.
Turn and with the shuttle thread, ten knots, join to
the center picot of bar and the middle picot of the
three in ring of next motif No. 2, ten knots, close.
Turn with the spool thread, repeat the bar and join
in the long picot. Repeat the bar and join in the
first picot of the next ring. This leaves three picots
of the ring free, at the left. Repeat the bar. Turn
and with the shuttle ten knots, join to the center picot
of next ring on next motif No. 1. Three knots, join
to the second picot of bar, ten knots, close. Turn
with the spool thread, repeat the bar. Join to the
last picot of bar. Repeat the bar, join to the center
picot of bar on motif No. 1. Repeat the bar, turn.
With the shuttle, ten knots, join to the center picot
of motif No. 1, three knots, join to the center of the
three picots, to last motif No. 2, ten knots, close.
Turn, with the spool thread repeat the bar, and join
in the middle of the three picots of the next ring of
motif No. 2. Repeat the bar and join to the middle
of the three picots of the next ring of the motif.
This brings you to the middle of the back of the yoke.
Thus continue until you come to the center piece.

Now you work on the lower edge of center-front
large motif. Slip the shuttle thread through the last
picot of the third bar from the bottom of the yoke.
At the left, just side of the bar with the one picot,
tie a square knot, and proceed to make the bar with
the seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, five
knots, one picot, five knots, join to the third picot of
same bar, five knots, one picot, five knots, close.
Five knots, join, five knots, two picots with one knot
between each picot, one knot, join to picot of small
ring, two knots, join to the middle picot of ring in
motif, two picots with one knot between each picot,
five knots, one picot, five knots, close, five knots, join,
five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Turn and with
the spool thread, repeat the bar and join to the middle
picot of ring on motif. Cut the thread long enough
so that you can tie a square knot.

Next you slip the spool thread through the fourth
picot of the ring at the left, holding the work so
that the top is down. This is the ring with the eleven
picots. Tie the square knot and with the spool thread
make the bar with the seven picots. Turn and with
the shuttle, two knots, eleven picots with one knot
between each picot, two knots, close. Turn and still
with the shuttle, five knots, one picot, five knots,
one picot, five knots, close, five knots, join, five
knots, one picot, five knots, one picot, five knots,
close. Five knots, join, five knots, five picots, with
one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot,
five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots,
join, five knots, one picot, five knots, close.

Slip the shuttle thread back at the first ring and
fasten it by putting the shuttle through the loop so
as to bring these five rings close to the one with the
eleven picots, without turning repeat the bar. and
join in the fourth picot from the left in the ring with
the eleven picots. Repeat the bar and join in the
eighth picot of same ring, repeat the bar, join in the
center picot of next bar at the right. Repeat the
bar and join in the first picot of the next bar. Re-
peat the bar, join in the fifth picot of the same bar.
Repeat the bar, join in the center picot of the next
bar, repeat the bar and join in the picot of the next

Page 11

ring of motif No. 2; another bar, join in the third
picot of the next ring; another bar, join in the middle
of the five picots; another bar, join in the same place
in the next ring; another bar, join in the last picot of
the bar in motif; another bar joined in the center
picot of the bar in motif; another bar joined between
the two bars, another bar joined in the long picot be-
tween the next two rings in motif; another bar joined
in the same place between the two rings of the motif;
another bar joined in the third picot of the three in
the next ring of motif; another bar joined in the third
picot of the next ring in motif; another bar joined in
the first picot of the next motif No. 1; another bar
joined in the center picot of the next bar of the motif;
another bar joined in the first picot of the next bar in
the motif, another bar joined in the last picot of the
same bar, repeat the bar.

Turn, with the shuttle thread, five knots, join in
the fourth picot of bar, five knots, join in the picot
of ring, five knots, close. Turn and with the spool
thread repeat the bar, join in the third picot of ring.
Join the next bar in the same place in the next ring.
Repeat the bar, join in the first picot of bar of
the next motif No. 2. Repeat the bar, join fourth picot
of same bar, repeat the bar, join in the first picot of the
next bar of motif. Repeat the bar, join in the last
picot of the same motif. Repeat the bar, join in the
long picot of the next motif. Repeat the bar, join in
the third picot of ring. Repeat the bar, join in the
third picot of the next ring. Repeat the bar. Join
in the first picot of the next bar. Repeat the bar.

Turn and with the shuttle thread, seven knots, join in
the picot of motif at the left, five knots, join in the
one picot left on the bar, seven knots, close. Turn and
with the spool thread, repeat the bar, join in the
center picot of next bar. Repeat the bar, join in the
center picot of next bar. Repeat the bar, join in the
last picot of the same bar. Repeat the bar, join in
the long picot between the next two rings. Repeat
the bar, join in the center picot of the next bar.
This brings you to the middle of the back of the
yoke.

Next you will crochet a row of double trebles to
run the ribbon through. The thread over the needle
twice, taking off two stitches at a time, two chair,
stitches between each treble.

Edge for top of night-goTvn yoke

THE edge of the top is worked thus: Slip the
shuttle thread through one of the chain stitches,
and tie it so that it will not open. It is wise to just
sew the end and then cut the rest of the end off, that
is, after you have tied the thread to the chain stitch.
Five knots, one picot, five knots, three picots with
one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot,
five knots, close. With the crochet hook draw the
thread through the second crochet stitch and slip the
shuttle through to fasten it. Then slip the thread
through the next second crochet stitch before you
begin the next ring. Do not make the rings so close
that they will draw up the yoke; it will make the
yoke considerably smaller if you do.

Border for Centerpiece and Doilies

This forget-me-not edge is exceptionally effective as a finish

for centerpieces and doilies of fine round-thread linen. It

can be carried out in heavy, white or linen colored thread

for icse on towels, runners and lunch cloths.

Forget-me-not Edge

TWO threads. With the shuttle thread make seven
knots, one picot, seven knots, close. With the
spool thread, five picots, with one knot between each
picot. With the shuttle, seven knots, join in picot
of ring, seven knots, close. With the spool thread,
holding work down, two picots with one knot between
each picot, holding the work in the same position and
with the shuttle thread, three picots, with three knots
between each picot, close. Three knots, join to picot
in ring, five knots, one picot, five knots, one picot,
three knots, close. Three knots, join in picot, three
knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots,
close.

With the spool thread, two picots, with one knot
between each picot. Turn, seven knots, join between
the two rings where there is already a join, seven
knots, close. Turn, with the spool thread, five picots
with one knot between each picot. Turn, with the
shuttle, seven knots, join in the same place with the

other three rings, seven knots, close. Holding the
work in same position, five picots, with one knot be-
tween each picot. With work in same position, make
seven knots, one picot, seven knots. Turn, with
spool thread, two picots, with one knot between each
picot, join in center picot of bar, two picots with one
knot between each picot. Turn, with shuttle, seven
knots, join at the three rings, seven knots, close.
Without changing position, make the bar with five
picots, and then the ring with seven knots, one picot,
seven knots, and thus proceed to vi'ork as directed.

If you wish to sew the tatting on a centerpiece
that is round, crochet five in chain, with a single
crochet in the center picot of bar at top, five
chains, with the thread over the needle twice, work
between the two rings (or at the picot part of the
four rings), and crocheting two stitches at a time,
thus making a double treble. This makes the work
even. If you want the work to be straight, crochet
seven In chain and proceed in the manner.

Page IS

Head — A ring formed by
making four double linots,
onepicot, four double Itnots,
one picot, four double knots,
close ring.

Body — Working closely
up to the first ring, make
nine double knots, one picot,
nine double knots, close.

Abdomen of butterfly
must be left until wings
are started.

Wings — Make a large
ring of three double knots;
make eleven long picots
with one double knot be-
tween each; make thirty
double knots. Close ring

very carefully, lest the thread holding all these
stitches should break.

Make the second ring for the foundation of the left
wing in the same manner, without breaking the
thread.

Before starting around the wings again for the
next row, pass the thread over the body of the but-
terfly and through the wing-foundations, pulling
thread firmly to fasten body and wings tightly to-
gether. Be careful not to break thread, however,
until you have fastened body and wings thoroughly,
as upon the firmness of this fastening depends the
strength of the butterfly.

Abdomen — Begin a ring with four double knots,
one picot, two double knots, one picot, two double
knots, one picot, two double knots; fasten in nearest
long picot of right wing of butterfly; two double knots,
fasten in picot at end of body; two double knots,
fasten in long picot of left wing of butterfly; two
double knots, one picot, two double knots, one picot,
two double knots, one picot, four double knots, close.
Fasten off thread.

2nd row around right wing: Make a tiny ring of
two double knots, catch into picot of abdomen which
is nearest to the body; one double knot, catch into
the same long picot to which the abdomen is fastened;
one double knot, catch into next long picot; two
double knots, close ring.

Make a ring of two double knots, catch into next
two long picots with a single knot; two double knots,
one picot. two double knots, close ring.

Pass the thread under the last ring forward, catch-
ing it in the second or last of the two long picots to
which the last small ring was fastened.

Make a ring like last small ring, catching it to the
next long picot. Pass thread under ring and catch
into the last of these long picots mentioned above.

Make a ring of four double knots, catch into next
two long picots, three double knots, one picot, four
double knots, close ring. Pass thread under ring,
catching into last of these two long picots.

Make a ring of four double knots, catch into one
long picot, four double knots, one picot. four double
knots, close ring. Pass thread under ring, fasten
into long picot.

Make the last ring with four double knots, catch
into the last two long picots, four double knots, one
picot, four double knots, close ring. Pass the thread
under ring, fasten securely to last long picot, and
break.

3rd row: With two threads, begin by fastening
extra thread under first small ring of last row. close
to abdomen of butterfly. Make four double knots
over this thread, catch into adjoining picot of abdo-

The butterfly medallions may be repeated to form yokes
or inserts for night-gowns, combination garments and
neckwear; also bed-room linens, towels, candle-shades,
pin-cushion covers and other novelties. The size of the
thread determines the size of the medallion. These would
be beautiful repeated to form the edge for a centerpiece

men; two double knots, one
picot, three double knots,
catch into picot of second
small ring of preceding row.
Make two double knots, one
picot, one double knot, one
picot, one double knot, one
picot, three double knots,
catch into picot of next
small ring; three double
knots, catch into last picot
of this first loop; one double
knot, one picot, two double
knots, one picot, one double
knot, onepicot; three double
knots, catch into picot of
next small ring. The third
loop ismadewithfourdouble
knots, catch thread into last picot of preceding loop;
one double knot, one picot, one double knot, one picot,
one double knot, one picot; four double knots, catch
thread into picot of next ring. Last loop is made with
five double knots, catch thread into picot of preceding
loop; * two double knots, one picot; repeat from * twice
more. Five double knots, catch into picot of last small
ring of preceding row. Fasten extra thread very care-
fully at this point, to insure against its slipping and
the consequent loss of this last loop; cut close to knot.
4th row: Continue with bobbin thread as follows:
Draw thread through nearest picot of last loop, make
a fastening stitch, leaving the thread long enough to
reach without pulling, from the point where loops end
and this last row commences. Make a similar fasten-
stitch in each picot of this loop. Carry thread, with-
out pulling, along the edge of all the loops, until you
reach the picot in the loop nearest the abdomen.

5th row: Make a ring of four double knots, catch
in last picot of abdomen, four double knots, close.
Another ring of four double knots, catch into thread
joining last two picots of adjoining loop; two double
knots, one picot, two double knots, close. Pass thread
under this ring to the nearest picot (one of the two
joined by thread into which this ring is fastened).
Make another ring of four double knots, catch into
nearest picot of next loop, two double knots, one
picot, four double knots, close. Fasten off thread
securely; break thread.

6th row: Tie the bobbin thread and the extra
thread to the extreme end of the abdomen of the
butterfly (it makes it less bungling to use the bobbin
thread by tying it around the abdomen, leaving a
piece long enough to work with as an extra thread).
Over extra thread make three double knots, one
picot with one double knot between, three double
knots; catch thread into picot of central small ring
of preceding row. Make a second loop like this first
one, fastening it to picot of last small ring of the
preceding row. Tie the extra thread securely, but do
not break it, as you will need it to make the outside
loops on the other wing.

The second wing is made exactly like the first one,
but you must, of course, work in the other direction
from the body of the butterfly.

Antennse — Draw the bobbin thread through one of
the picots of the head, for one of these, pulling it
through until it is long enough to work over as an
extra thread. Tie in a firm knot, so that it will
not slip.

Make seventeen double knots over this extra
thread. Make a ring of seven double knots; close.
Tie the two threads very firmly, and cut close to knot.
The other antenna is made like the first.

Page 13

A Beautiful Collar of
Tatting and Crochet

Tatting medallions

of any shape or size

TO make this collar, a spool of medium crochet
lace thread with a spool of No. 12 cotton are
required ; a tatting shuttle, a patent steel crochet
hook No. 11, and a collar pattern, cut in stiff paper.

To make the tatting medallions

FILL the shuttle, break the thread from the spool;
measure eleven finger-lengths from the shuttle,
do not cut it off, but let it hang down. Throw the
shuttle thread over your left hand and work over it
with shuttle, three double knots, one picot; three
double knots, one picot, three double knots, one picot;
three double knots, draw it up gently, tight and close.
Throw the loose piece over the left hand, hold it be-
tween the thumb and first finger, close to the wheel.
With shuttle thread work over the piece around your
hand, three double knots, one picot, two double knots,
picot, two double knots, picot, two double knots, picot,
two double knots, picot, three double knots; there
are five picots here. Turn work over. With shuttle
thread work three double knots, join it (using the
crochet hook for the purpose) through third picot of
first tiny wheel; three double knots, picot, three dou-
ble knots, picot, three double knots; draw it up as
before. Go on the same way until you come to the
eighth wheel, which is the last. Here you make
three double knots, join through third picot of seventh
wheel; three double knots, one picot; three double
knots; join through first picot of first wheel; three
double knots; draw up close; make one more outside
piece, tie the threads in a tight knot, cut off close and
sew on the wrong side securely, so it will be sure not
to come undone when laundered.

The medallions are joined where they fit best on
the pattern. Make the medallion up to the sixth in-
side wheel; with outside thread make your two picots,
two double knots; join through third picot; finish this
like the others. Make the seventh wheel, then your
two outside picots; join and finish same as the other
medallion.

To make the large crochet roses

First round: Chain seven, join with slip-stitch
through third of chain; chain six; into this space work
five trebles, with two chain between; chain two, join
with slip-stitch through third stitch of chain.

Second round: Into each hole work one single,
four doubles, one single.

Third round: Chain four, hook it through last
single of first shell; repeat around the row.

Fourth round: Into each hole work one single, five
doubles, one single.

Fifth round: Chain five, hook it through last
single of first shell in previous row.

Sixth round: Into each hole put one single, seven
doubles, one single.

Seventh round: Like fifth, only add one stitch to
each chain.

Eighth round: Into each hole, one singe, nine
doubles, one single.

Ninth round: Like fifth, adding two stitches to
each chain.

Tenth round: Into each hole work one single,
eleven doubles, one single; cut off thread about nine
inches long, draw it through last loop, and use this
piece for sewing the roses together.

The second size roses are the same, only leave off
the tenth and ninth rounds. For the third size, make
five petals instead of six; widen to the seventh round;
the tiny ones are only four rounds, five petals.

The illustrations showing two tatting medallions
and a large rose will aid in following the instructions.

To make the collar

JOIN two medallions. Now make part of another,
place all on the paper pattern, and join the un-
finished medallion so it will fit and lie flat; continue
this way along the outer edge, and when you have
enough made to go around, baste them on the paper
pattern.

Sew the roses in place, face down; make another
row of medallions, fitting it on the paper as you
work. Join it to the two front wheels each side
the collar; baste it, then sew it to the roses; be-
tween the roses make simple fagot stitch with the
crochet cotton. A row of crocheted edging finishes
the neck.

Press the collar gently on the wrong side, with a
warm iron, while still on the paper; rip it off care-
fully. Dampen collar, place over Turkish toweling,
then press on the wrong side, with a moderately hot
iron, until dry.

Page H

Dainty yokes and edgings for little girls' dresses, babies'

dresses and narrow yokes for underwear, as well as edge

for dining-room linens, can be developed from this border,

which may be used as insertion or edging

Clover Leaf Edge

TWO threads. Begin with the shuttle thread, six
knots, one picot, six knots, five picots with two
knots between each picot, six knots, one picot, six
knots, close. Second leaf: six knots, join in the sin-
gle picot opposite, six knots, five picots with two
knots between each picot, six knots, one picot, six
knots, close. Make another like this. When finished
take a crochet hook and draw the shuttle thread
through the space between the first and second leaf
and fasten as closely together as possible. Just pull
the shuttle thread and you will get the leaf as close
as is needed. Now take the spool thread, eight
knots, one picot, eight knots, three picots with two
knots between, eight knots, one picot, eight knots.
Join in the middle picot of opposite leaf, eight knots,
one picot, eight knots. With the shuttle, five knots,
join in the first of the five picots of the center clover
leaf, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. With
the spool thread, five knots. Now make another leaf
the same as the first three leaves which form the
clover, making sure that you join at the proper place.
Turn so that this last clover points toward you, and
with the spool thread make five knots. Turn the
clover from you and with the shuttle, five knots, join
in the single picot, five knots, one picot, five knots,

close. Turn the work and with the spool thread,
eight knots, join opposite in the corresponding bar,
eight knots and join in the center picot of the side
leaf of clover, eight knots. Join in the picot opposite
bar to the right of the three picots of the same bar,
eight knots, three picots with two knots between,
eight knots, one picot, eight knots. Turn, with the
shuttle, make six knots, one picot, six knots, two
picots with two knots between. Join in picot at the
opposite bar, two picots with two knots between, six
knots, one picot, six knots, close. Six knots, join,
six knots, join in the first of the five picots, in the
leaf. Make four more picots with two knots between,
six knots, one picot, six knots, close. Six knots,
join, in the picot of the second leaf, six knots, five
picots with two knots between, six knots, one picot,
six knots, close. Now join the three leaves so that
they are close together. Turn and with the spool
thread, eight knots, join in the opposite picot, and
proceed with the work as directed.

No. 60 crochet cotton may be used for in-
fants' yokes, and No. 30 for underwear. Even
coarser thread may be used. The edge is very
durable, made of linen thread. Luncheon sets fin-
ished with this edge, made of coarse thread, are
most satisfactory and attractive.

Forget-me-not Insertion or Yoke

TWO threads. With the shuttle thread,
seven knots, one picot, seven knots,
close. With the spool thread, begin with
the knot, make seven picots with one
knot between each picot. With the
shuttle, seven knots, join in picot of ring,
seven knots, close. Make seven knots,
one picot, seven knots, close. With
the spool thread, holding the rings
toward you, repeat the bar. Turn, and
repeat the two rings (see narrow
edge).

The width of the lace depends on the
number of bars and double rings you
start your work with. Finish with a
bar when you have obtained the width
you want. Turn the work with the
rings pointing up. With the shuttle,
repeat the ring, joining in the picot.
Turn, and repeat the bar, holding the
work toward you. Turn, with the
shuttle, repeat the ring and join in the
same place as the previous ring. Turn,
and rfepeat the bar with the spool
thread. Turn and repeat the ring and
join in the same place. Repeat the ring and join
between the next two rings. Turn and repeat the
bar. Turn and repeat the ring, joining in the same

A four-leaf clover design that
can be used fur medallions, in-
sertion or edge on neckivear
and babies' garments, and may
be adapted to a yoke for night-
gowns or infants' dresses

place as before. Repeat the ring and
join in the next two rings. Turn and
repeat the bar and the rings until you
come to the top of your work, finishing
with the forget-me-not. Turn the work
down and with the spool thread, repeat
the bar. Holding the work in same po-
sition, repeat the ring.

Now lay the work over the fingers,
with the last made ring pointing to
the right, and with the spool thread,
beginning with the knot, make three
picots, joining in the center of the
seven picots previously made, three
picots. With the shuttle and turning
the work down, repeat the ring and
join in the picot of ring. Repeat the
ring with the one picot. Repeat the
bar, joining in the center of the seven
picots. Proceed until you come to the
top. This brings your work to the
point shown in the illustration.

No. 60 crochet cotton should be used
for underwear and house linens; No. 100
for handkerchiefs and infants' gar-
ments. This design may be repeated to
any width and is very pretty for square yokes. Made
of heavy Mnen or ecru thread it will be a decorative fin-
ish for dining-room covers of natural colored linen.

Page 15

Six-pointed motif

TWO threads. With the shuttle make
a ring of six picots with one l<not
between, close. Join the thread in the
first picot, eight knots and one picot.
Join in the second picot. Proceed to make
eight knots and one picot until you come
to the starting point and then join in the
first picot. With a crochet hook put the
end of the spool thread through this same
picot.

A good way to fasten the thread is to
tie a knot at the end of the inserted
thread and cut the end ofl', then tie an-
other time around the knot end so that the thread will
easily slip through when you pull the thread close to the
picot to which you have inserted the spool thread.
Draw the spool thread tightly and close to the picot.

With the shuttle, make five knots, one picot, five
knots, close. With the spool thread, make three
knots, one picot, three knots, holding the ring from
you so that the picot will lie toward the eight knots
of the preceding row, then three knots. Turn the
work with the motif toward you and proceed to make
another ring like the first. Join in the picot, repeat
this little design to the starting point. Join in the
first picot. With the spool thread, seven knots, one

Motif for medallion or

edging^ made with two

threads

picot, seven knots, and join in the closed
picot between the two rings made in the
preceding row. With the shuttle, five
knots, one picot, five knots, three picots
without making a knot between (thus:
make the picot which is made with the first
stitch of the knot, and then make the
second stitch, one picot. Now just repeat
twice more and you will have the three
picots without a knot between) , five knots
and close. Five knots, one picot, five
knots, close. Put the shuttle thread back
around the three rings and make a loop,
running the shuttle through, so as to fasten
the thread around the three rings to keep them close
together. Try, while working, to keep your work as
flat as possible; it will not puzzle you as much as when
you let your work go. Now make seven knots, one
picot and seven knots. Now you will just repeat
this design and you will have the motif complete.
(It takes about an hour to make this motif.)

These motifs can be used in various ways — joined
as insertion, or joined as an edge for centerpieces,
they are really very handsome when made with coarse
thread, and they will outwear three linens. When
made with fine lace thread they are beautiful for
trimming the finest garments.

Simple round tatting wheel

TWO threads. Make a ring with nine
large picots, with three knots be-
tween. Join the spool thread to the first
picot. To make the small rings: five
knots, one picot, five knots, close. Join
in the next picot of the large ring, pro-
ceed to make these rings until you have
worked to the first of the small rings.
Join the shuttle thread in the first picot
under the first ring, put the spool thread
in this same place and tie carefully. Hold

Simple round tatting
wheel

the motif from you and with the spool
thread make five knots, one picot, and
five more knots. Join the shuttle thread
to the picot of the little ring (preceding
row). Now hold the motif toward you
and work a ring, five knots, one picot, five
knots and three picots with one knot be-
tween each picot; five knots, one picot,
five knots, close ring. Proceed, making
the bars and rings all the way around,
then fasten your two threads carefully
and cut them off.

Showing how any wheels may be arranged on the linen to finish a handsome center-
piece. Doilies rnay be -made to match

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